So Square It’s Hip: Gen Z Tries on the Cadre Look
A dull blue jacket, oversize trousers, a Party member pin adding a splash of red on the chest, a small briefcase in hand. It’s the typical dress of the typical Chinese official, and has long been the very opposite of the look that many young Chinese strive for. But now the cadre look is cool.
沉闷的蓝色外套,宽松的裤子,胸前一枚红色dang徽,手提一个小公文包。这是典型中国官员的典型着装,长期以来与许多中国年轻人追求的形象相去甚远。但现在,这种干部装变酷了。
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dull · 不明亮的;不鲜明的;无光泽的not bright or shiny,比如说:a dull grey colour 暗灰色 dull, lifeless hair 无光泽、无弹性的头发
On Chinese social media platforms where trendsetters trade fashion tips, young people — mostly men — have been sharing pictures of themselves dressed like their strait-laced, middle-aged dads working in Communist Party offices. They call the trend “ting ju feng,” or “office and bureau style” — meaning the working wear of a typical mid-rank bureaucrat.
在引领潮流者交流时尚心得的中国社群媒体平台上,年轻人(主要是男性)分享他们穿着与在中共办公室上班的古板中年父亲类似着装的照片。他们把这个趋势称为「厅局风」——指的是典型中层官员工作时穿的衣服。
“Compared with the clothes with fashion-brand logos, this style is more dignified and poised,” Yang Zhan, a 21-year-old electric engineering student in Anhui Province, in central China, wrote in a message replying to questions from The New York Times. He had posted a picture of himself wearing his father’s navy blue jacket and mother’s Party member pin on Xiaohongshu, one of the fastest-growing social platforms targeting young Chinese.
相比于满是logo的衣服,这种比较端庄、大方,安徽省21岁的电气工程专业学生杨占(音)在回复《纽约时报》提问的短讯中写道。他在「小红书」上发了一张自己穿着父亲的藏青色夹克、戴着母亲dang徽的照片。「小红书」是发展最快的中国年轻人社群媒体平台之一。
On Xiaohongshu, hashtags for the trend have amassed more than five million views. Young government employees have posted their daily looks, and students have also posted selfies in the cadre-wear. Some young women also show off the styles of their civil servant boyfriends. Canny garment sellers have even started including the “office bureau style” label in their online ads for clothes usually bought by middle-aged men.
在小红书上,「厅局风」这个话题标签已积累了逾500万点击量。年轻的公务员们晒出日常着装,学生们也晒出了身穿干部服的自拍。一些年轻女性还炫耀公务员男友们的时尚。精明的服装销售商们甚至已开始在网络广告中添加了「厅局风」标签,这些衣服通常由中年男子购买。
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amass /ə'mæs/ v.积聚,积累,大量收集: if you amass money, knowledge, information etc, you gradually collect a large amount of it,比如说:•For 25 years, Darwin amassed evidence to support his theories.在25 年里,达尔文收集了大量的证据来支持自己的理论。•He amassed a fortune after the war.战后,他积累了大量财富。
There are limits to the appeal of the cadre look. Mr. Yang’s pictures attracted admiring comments online, but he said he would never wear the outfit to class. “Otherwise my classmates would say I’m stinking with smugness,” he said. “Maybe it’s a little too mature.”
干部形象的魅力是有限的。虽然杨先生晒的照片在网上获得了赞赏,但他说,他永远不会穿那种服装去上课。同学会说我瞎臭美,他说。可能是成熟点了吧。
Airbnb, a home rental company, plans to shut down its domestic business in China, in a further sign of the internet decoupling between China and much of the rest of the world.
民宿租赁公司爱彼迎(Airbnb)计划关闭在中国境内的业务,这是中国与世界大部分地区互联网脱钩的进一步迹象。
The cadre style’s popularity may also reflect the high interest in holding a government post, especially while the economy has slowed sharply. Last year a record two million people registered to take the national government agencies’ hiring exam.
干部风格现在受到的欢迎也许反映了人们对政府固定职位的高度兴趣,尤其是在经济急剧放缓的时候。去年,报名参加中央政府机构招聘考试的人数达到了创纪录的200万。
“When big internet companies are having rounds of layoffs, the ‘office bureau style’ is sending out an unspoken message of being reliable, stable and rid of intensive competition,” Hu Zhen, a Chinese fashion blogger, said in a recent video.
在互联网大厂都纷纷裁员的当下,厅局风却默默传递出踏实 、稳定、反内卷的气息,」中国时尚部落客胡榛在最近发布的一段影片中说。
Still, many young people think ting ju feng is just a social media fad. Wei Zhangnan, a Beijing business consultant, posted his cadre look but added that it might not last. “Probably it will soon be gone,” he said. “Not everybody is fond of the old cadre vibe.”
尽管如此,许多年轻人认为「厅局风」只是社群媒体上的短暂狂热。北京的商务顾问魏章南(音)在网上晒出自己穿干部装的照片后补充道,「厅局风」也许不会持续太久。也许过一阵就不流行了,他说。并不是所有人都喜欢老干部风格。
Others are rolling their eyes at the look and the fascination it reflects with civil servant culture.
也有一些人对「厅局风」及其反映的公务员文化对人们的极大吸引力表示不以为然。
“The profession is being looked up to as if it has a halo on it now,” said Tina Zhou, a law student from northeastern Liaoning Province. “If anybody who is not a civil servant deliberately dresses like this in daily life, I would think he is a bit too uptight and stern.”
公务员这个专业已经自带光环了,来自东北辽宁省的法律系学生蒂娜·周说。但是日常生活中刻意追求这种穿搭,我会觉得这个人有点古板严肃。
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look up to 尤指对年长者敬仰,钦佩,仰慕;If you look up to someone, especially someone older than you, you respect and admire them. 比如说:You're a popular girl, Grace, and a lot of the younger ones look up to you.你很受大家欢迎,格雷丝,很多比你小的女孩子都很崇拜你。